One of the more traditional forms of salwar kameez is the Patiala salwar kameez. This type has some interesting history behind it. The garment is named after Patiala, a city in the North Indian state of Punjab. The dress was so called because in ancient times the king of Patiala used to wear baggy pants and tops that were full sleeved. The trend became so popular that women started copying it in their daily wear resulting in what is now known as patiala salwars. Just like the king’s pants, the patiala salwars are very loose and pleated. In fact the more baggy the pant is the better it looks.
The fall of the pleats is such as to give a beautiful draping effect. There is a lot of fluidity in the salwar’s look and women wear it with short and tight tops. The salwar has drawstring waist just like other salwars. For women with heavier bottom half, this design could do wonders as the extra weight is well hidden under the scores of drapes and pleats. This type is also very comfortable, especially in summer months when the loose fit allows one to keep cool. The patialas are more common among the women of North India, but they are definitely gaining in popularity throughout the country too due to their lovely look.
Women with short height can do especially well with this garment, particularly if they wear a kurta that hits above the knee. The kurtas could be long too for this type of salwat kameez, but to really show off the beauty of the bottom’s design, it is better to wear tops that are shorter. Also, the slits at the sides of the kurtas have to be long, sometimes up to the waist. The fabric, color and embroidery can be of varied types and depends upon the wearer’s style.
A wide range of Patiala Salwaar Kameez can be bought at the most reasonable rates at online stores selling Indian merchandise, such as www.indianselections.com, and www.indiashack.com
i wonder tht patiala salwar is a converted design of a male pant. i hadn’t heard b’for.
Hi there,
I’m desperately looking for a sewing pattern for Patiala salwars. Even a lesson would be helpful! If you have any ideas or suggestions, I’d greatly appreciate them.
Best,
Sarah
Hi All!
Kindly tell me how to sew a patiala salwar. Also how much of cloth is required for a standard patiala salwar?
Regards
Rasna
Hi Sarah!
The rectangular portion is of the patiala salwaar is of the same size as of a normal salwaar. If the length is 38 inches, then a seperate 9 inch piece is needed for the belt ie; the belt should be 9 inches by 52 inches.
Take a double square piece of 32 inches, fold it and make a right triangle. Cut one side of 7 inches on the edge of the hypotenuse and the horizontal side to make the aasan. Stich the vertical side of the triangular piece with the side of the rectangular piece.
Where you join the salwaar and the belt, less than half portion should be joined with pletes.
Pl keep checking out this blog - I will be starting a full series on patiala salwaar kameez shortly.
Best Wishes,
Jasnav
Hi Rasna!
Pl refer my earlier reply to Sarah’s comments. It will give you an idea of the stitching procedure.
The patiala salwaar requires more cloth than ordinary salwaars, mainly due to the layers of cloth buried under the pletes. This is what gives the patiala salwaar it’s unique and rich feel and look.
The cloth required for a full size patiala salwaar is 3.5 meters.
Series on patiala salwaars coming up!
Best Wishes,
Jasnav
Hi….
iam 6 feet tall girl , How much cloth is required for stitching patiala salwar for me ..The length is around 40-42 inch of normal salwar
thx in advance
regards
Hi Surabhi!
A normal patiala salwaar for a 5′4″ lady requires around 3.5 meters of cloth. For you, 4 to 4.25 meters should be adequate, depending on your waist size.
Best wishes,
Jasnav
Hi … jasnav
Can u tell me the difference between semi patiala salwar , regular patiala salwar and shahi salwar ….and how much cloth is required for semi patiala salwar and shahi salwar ….sorry for giving trouble …
thx in advance and regards
Hi Surabhi!
My apologies for the delayed response. I was going around consulting some experts to ensure you get the right answer to your query.
Difference b/w semi patiala and regular is that in semi patiala, less cloth is used for the pletes and the pletes are also less. This passes for comparitively less formal stuff, and the overall cloth used is less as well.
For a standard sized Indian woman (5′2″ to 5′6″), the cloth required for patiala, and semi patiala is respectively 3.5 to 4 meters and 2.5 to 3 meters repectively. For someone your size, it would be 4.5 to 5 meters for patiala, and 3.5 meters for semi patiala should suffice.
Best Wishes,
Jasnav
how to keep the pleats for patiala im not getting it how much gap should be there between each pleats.please help me out.
with regards,
janani
Hi Jasnav,
Can you please let me know how much fabric would be enough for shirt ( kameez) for a 5′ 6″ girl with average physical built ?
Hello Ria!
With regards to your query, the shirt for a patiala salwaar kameez is generally shorter than those of normal salwaar kameez. It would generally end at the knees, or slightly above them, the aim being to showcase the much more elaborate salwaar.
For someone your size, the length of cloth required would be about 2.5 meters.
Best wishes,
Jasnav
hi jasnav,
iam 4′11”, weigh 49 kgs and have a fairly proportionate body. How well would semi patiala suit me ? wat other salwar kameez styles would suit me ?
hi Jasnav add me to ur list…..
em another fan ov ur nice replies for patiala salwar…..
i wanna ask something about plate making plzz inform me at my id
imurbluem00n@hotmail.com
Adaab.
Maha
Kanika,
Hello!
Seeing your height and weight, you seem to be fairly slim, so a semi-patiala should suit you fairly well. Just try and keep the shirt length small(above knee length) to display the design well and to go with your height. Also you can go for high heels as the heels themselves will be mostly hidden by the flares of the salwar.
As for the other types, you should prefer churidaar, with the length of the shirt being below the knee in this case, to give you a taller look. Also the churidaar shirt should be with a long slit with a band shaped neck.
Regards,
Jasnav
Hi Maha!
Thanks for your encouraging words. I will definitely keep you in mind when we start some mailers from this site.
As for any of your queries, I suggest we use this forum so it can be for the benefit of all. For all you know, someone may have the same query and may benefit from your question!
Regards,
Jasnav
Hmmm Jasnav very nice buddy…..
So when u r gonna rock on this site by the most interested topic…..
Kindly start it …..Cuzz mujhay farewell per her surat-e-hall indian patialla pehnni hai……..
So sweet ov ur reply apna bohat khayal rekhna….
Adaab-Arz!
Maha
Hi Jasnav,
Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it.
Regards,
Ria
Hi Jasnav, I’m trying to understand your instructions for a patiala salwar…sorry if I sound like an idiot!
Do you mean that we should take about 5 meters of fabric, cut it into something like four squares with the crotch cut into the diagonal of each square and the ankle opening cut out?
I’m sorry to sound like an idiot, but I need help.
Regards,
Jaleh
Correction on the above, I meant TWO squares, not four!!!
Hi Jaleh!
You have hit the nail on the head - bang on! The two squares will morph into the two legs of the salwaar. Once folded into triangles, the lower (smaller) end will be the ankle end.
And never mind about sounding like not knowing anything - the best way to find out is to ask - those who do not ask questions do not learn anything at all!
Best Wishes.
Jasnav
Dear Jasnav,
Thank you for being understanding and helpful! I’m going to get busy cutting the salwar now, and hopefully I’ll get the pleating right.
Thank you yet again so very much!!!
Jaleh
I find a total lack of Indian style sewing pattern in the West very frustrating. I have one sewing pattern for salwar kameez that is Simplicity 4249 but it has the skinny pants.
Someone has given you instructions that sound quite good already. If you really need a diagram try to find this book: Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong. ISBN 0-06-501789-7 It is in the section for pants and called geometric-draped pant.
Hey Jasnav,
I have successfully cut down and sew a patialla but but but…..
pleats are not correct i think because shape ov the patialla is not like other patiallazzz…
leme let u understand that how i have stitched that.
8-10 pleats on front ov both sides in inward position….like to fold a paper horizontally inward
jasnav plzzz do upload or send graphical pattern making or cutting can u provide ur own cutting steps picsss
plzz try it sabki tenssion durr bhagao apna pattern samjhao.
Maha
Hi!! I am looking for patiala salwar pattern for my 3 year old twin girls. Can anyone please give me some guidance? I used to make suits for my self when i was in college in India but have forgotten all the calculations that i used :o(
Cheers
Loveleen
there is one more difference between patiala and regular shalwar i.e. the pletes of patiala are one inch thick whereas in normal shalwar they are more like the gatherings we see in frocks.
he there!
some one help me to do a block of a shalwar kameez plz.i want to know the way of making a block for a shalwar kameez.
regards
zana
hi.
pls help me to do a block of a shalwar kameez plz.i want to know the way of making a block for a shalwar kameez.
thank you
I would like to know if they sell pattern for salwaar kameez with designs that you can cut and sew. Please let me know.
Thank you
Hi Jasnav
It was gr8 to see the pattern on the blog. I did try it out & came out pretty well. thanks